PCT Day 35

Day 35

Miles - 22

I sleep in today as does BLT. Well I say sleep in, I don’t start walking till 8am, no signs  of life from BLT so I pack quietly. It’s cold outside but I don’t mind though as the meadow is a lovely place to waste time. The deer have gone. I pass through the meadow silently and cross the river using stepping stones. I’m heading up and over Forrester Pass today. Its 13200 ft, the highest point of the PCT. I don’t think it’s going to be a bad climb as I start the serious part at 11000 ft. It’s a slow ascent up though and I climb a bit in the morning and get ten miles in. I pass by a few rivers and shady woods and begin the slow treeless walk up. It’s not steep at all and I gain a few 100 feet over 3-4 miles. Lots of John Muir hikers pass me, we exchange the usual nods. It’s getting hotter and neither of us want to stop.

I hike by a beautiful lake which shimmers in the sun, it’s completely out in the open, just standing alone and I would love to go for a swim. After a while no one is around and it’s just me and the mountains. I pass a few lakes which I think are glaciers and see the odd marmot. I’m walking on the hard stoney mountain as the sandy path fades. I can’t see where it goes until I’m right at the base, its does the usual zig zag ascent and I begin. I’m very slow as per usual but I keep going. 

The scenery grows with each step and pairs of grey and red birds flit and play. I don’t see anyone till I’m at the top. A group of guys are waiting, they’ve been there a while as they wait for some of their group to catch up. I take a few photos then begin my speedy descent to make up time. I poke the snow with my yucca sticks and keep going. I pass exhausted ascenders and the pair who are with the group at the top - the ones they were waiting for and one if suffering majorly from altitude sickness. I park up next to the lovely flowing river, drink and eat, then I speed down through the valley of  trees, it’s 4.5 miles to the Middle Vidette campsite. I’m glad it’s all down hill. Happy because it makes a change from going up and also because I can go faster and outrun the mosquitos which hound me. Down in the valley below I can see huge clusters of dark green trees. They cover everything and look still and welcoming.

I speed along and don’t see any others till I get to the campsite where there are a large of group of hikers who’ve all come together along the way. I join them round the campfire which is keeping mozzies away. One hiker attempts to make Ethiopian fire bread then another catches a trout which we cook and eat. We pile our bear canisters by the fire and head off to sleep one by one. It feels good to cowboy camp. I lay there content as colourful cocoons of the others sleeping bags lay here and there. The sound of the furious river storms by. I hear the occasional mozzie buzz by but I remain unaffected.

Day 36 here

 

PCT Day 34

Day 34
Miles - 25

I always amaze myself by how speedily I can be when I hike in the morning. I do 10 miles by 10 am. The climb today doesn’t actually feel that bad it’s only 1200 ft then its levels out. I pause and eat a mars bar and I’m spotted by a curious chipmunk. One who is obviously familiar with humans. They dash around, sussing me out then scurrying over being coy and deceptive. They seek out my bag of trail mix and nimble at it. I throw a few nuts at it and check my location on my English phone as my US one is being exceptionally slow. I’m a mile away from Chicken Spring lake so I walk on and the view of the place is spectacular when I arrive. A piercing blue sky with no clouds hovers above. A great rocky cove surrounds the blueish lake, pine trees line the edges. Snow clings to the to the cliffs. A slight wind stirs the trees and I am in bliss.

I turn off the trail slightly to relax beside the lake. I rinse some clothes and myself and sit in the shade while they dry. It’s so blissful here, I am at peace, the first lake I’ve found on the PCT. After 2h I head off and I’m spotted by Red beard and Zipper and I then end up chilling with them for another hour and smoke weed. I hike out before them and gain a little height. We’ve all agreed to camp 15 miles away. I ascend the path which is a stoney ascent and rises above the lake. I walk a few miles and stop for a bit as Redbeard and Zipper catch up and over take.

The trail levels out and I cross through the pine forest and walk on sandy paths. I hike through a meadow and descend into a pine-ier forest (if possible). I find water and catch Red beard and Zipper getting their fill and hike on. It’s 6 miles and a 1500 ft ascent. I follow slowly and I’m joined briefly by 2 Canadians. Jukebox and snakebite(?) who are section hiking. I walk by a glorious river and see a dozen colourful tents set out beside it. They are all spread out here and there enjoying their own little peace. Some fish with small-travel size rods, some are cooking, some tending to their sore feet (section/JMT hikers - their feet still getting use to the trail), some nap, some read, some stretch, some tents are closed - their inhabitants sleeping, some are climbing trees, some are gathered in groups, some are enjoying movement without a pack, some hobble, some wave and I keep going.

Up I climb zigzagging, up, right, left, right, left, a green meadow appears with the solitary lone path of the trail running through it. I’m surrounded by high rocky cliffs on either side and lone trees dotted around. Up, right, left. Golden shafts of sunlight glisten and hover through the trees as the sun is beginning to call it a day.

Then all of a sudden it levels out and I’m walking through a forest. It’s quiet and still.

I push on a bit further and meet the top, then I zig zag down. The sun now casts red and golden rays over the trees and the wind filters through the branches. I’m the only thing making a noise.

Down I go and I arrive at the Whitney Creek and a glorious meadow with a larger river flowing through. I get closer and I see small flock of deer wandering about calmly. It’s amazing. I set up camp near the bear box and chat with a guy called BLT - Brave Little Toaster. He is getting off at Lone Pine after south bounding due to starting his hike early. Now he’s heading north again. We chat this and that - the usual hiker talk and smoke weed. Darkness falls bringing the chill. BLT zips his tent shut and I snuggle down in my sleeping bag as I cowboy camp under the stars which shine brightly.

Day 35 here

PCT Day 33

Day 33

Miles - 20

I’m up early as usual and take it slow as I wander up the last 2 miles to the top. When I finally get there I’m so happy to be at the top! There isn’t much of a view but at least I’m not constantly going up. With everything that goes up, it must come down and down I walk and find myself above a glorious green meadow. No more dried out pale fields, just lush, cool greenery. I walk along happily and slowly descend into the dreamy greeny. I come across a river and chill with Red beard and Zipper. Blue joins us and I eat porridge with sugar and powdered milk.

I walk out and find the next ascent hard. After a mile I take a nap, my body so fatigued. I wander on and find Blue and we proceed to leapfrog each other as we climb up the hill. It’s sunny and hot but I can see a glorious blue sky above the shady trees. I am slow. Slow slow slow. Once at the top I reward myself with chocolate spread and a tortilla wraps and walk on. I’m still slow but content and get to the campsite for 6pm. Blue is already there and set up for the night. I do my evening chores and am happy to be still and relaxed.

Day 34 here