Wednesday 27 May 2015

PCT Day 8


Day 8 - 15miles
Up and walking by 5:45 am. It's a pleasant start to the day as I snake my way around the bends in the rocky hill. A morning rabbit is ahead of me bounding along the trail. It isn't too hot yet which is lucky. The inner corners of the path are refreshingly chilling to walk into. It's a gradual climb which then turns into a single path to the road; at the end of which is the Paradise café. I'm their first customer and order a large orange juice and 3 pancakes. I'm so full after they swell in my stomach but so happy too. I message my friend parents in-law who I'll been staying with come early July. I remain still waiting for the pancakes to settle. After charging my items and procrastinating a bit too long I plucked up the courage to hitch hike.
I write up a hitching sign and head to the main road. It's super hot but head to the road side feeling optimistic. The first car is a red car and I can see it speeding towards me. I hold out my sign, my thumb and smile meekly. The car pulls over immediately.
 Well that was easier than I thought
I pick up my bag and run over. Inside is a friendly man who signals that I put my bag in the back . His name is Thomas but goes by the name of Black Mountain due to his native heritage. He has long black head in plaits with leather and beads interwoven in them. He says he often picks up hitchers as he likes to help. He's in the area to go hiking as his wife wants him out the house and he attempts that he needs to shed a few pounds. He's a jolly man and we have a good conversation. He is only going half way so we shake hands and I hitch again.
A few cars pass by until a large hatchback (all cars are huge) pulls over. It's blaring out music and every seat is filled. I look closer and it's the trio of hikers from yesterday; one girl called Pop Tart and a father and son - the son Jeff is hiking the trail again after getting a hernia last year and had to bow out half way up California. I clamber inside and we speed off to Idyllwild frequently doing double the speed limit. We slide around in the back seats which are made of leather as he whizzes round corners. He over takes a little motorbike which gladly pulls over. We arrive and our driver offers to drive us to a second supermarket if want. We politely decline. The store is pretty barren but were able to resupply. I chat with Poptart briefly who is 27 and from North Carolina. She did the AT last year. She completes her shopping and jets off to the post office. I'm left to wander the dusty shelves and stock up with way too much sugar. To get back on the trail I decide to head up a track called Deer Springs Trail which is 5 miles in total to the PCT. It's slow going in the midday heat, luckily there is plenty of shade but still it takes me all afternoon.

I don't stop hiking till I get to the water source - North fork San Jacinto River which I reach at 4 pm. I clamber downstream on the rocks and wash my clothes and myself as best I can. I drink 2 liters while I'm there. After an hour I walk on, my backpack is so heavy when I sling it back on I nearly topple sideways. The walk to the top is long and slow, least tomorrow it's downhill - all 6000ft of downhill. I take my time and receive amazing views from the top. I see a valley of wind turbines in my direction of travel. I pass through a forest of tall pine trees, little patches of snow are present here and there.

Lizards and chipmunks scatter about and birds fly above. I make it to the top and begin the appreciated descent. I only go down 2000ft and make camp. I have a gorgeous view over the valley and after pitching my tent I still in the stillness and marvel at where I am. I can see the sun setting over a city, the haze and cloud trying to overpower each other. It takes me ages to fall asleep as my brain won't switch off and I think of things I want to accomplish. Shh brain sleep.
















Tuesday 26 May 2015

PCT Day 7

Day 7 - 25 miles
I wake just before my alarm and get up to a damp tent and sleeping bag - condensation. I pack up and I'm hiking for 5:45. I eat an apple and muffins as I walk. The sun is already up and makes an appearance over the sleeping valley, a layer of low hanging cloud hovers over the greenery. I walk following the trail bend round the mountains curves and suddenly smell incense. I see Robyn warming up in the sunlight sitting inside his little encampment. He's burning coils of incense to he insects away.

"You're up early" he says smiling at my eagerness

"I want to beat the sun"

I wave goodbye and hike on. I want to get to the next decent water source by midday so I can wait out the midday heat with a drink. It's 16 miles away so I've got to get a wiggle on. I stop by a water tank supplied by a trail angel and top up my water and brush my teeth. The heat is really beginning to pick up now and my brain begins to count down the miles one by one.
7 miles, 6 miles, 5, 4, 3.5, 3,
I take a break in the shade and down a liter. My feet are so hot and have swelled due to the heat. I let them breath and eat a king-sized packet of Doritos. I haven't peed yet which isn't good. I check my GPS and guide book. 3 miles to go. I heave my pack back on and hike out the last hour. The next water was Tule spring and 400 yards off the trail. I keep an eye out for a turning and followed a path down the hill hoping it to be the correct one. I then find 2 girls waiting out the heat. One from Canada and one from Chicago. We swap the usual trail talk and I fill up 2 water bottles and join them waiting out the heat. I yard-sale my stuff in the heat and am amaze to find that it's already dry from the intense heat regardless of being trapped in my bag.

After a little while I manage to pee and 3 other hikers join us; 2 of which are hoping to complete the PCT in 3 months = 30 miles a day! They obviously don't hang around for long and chill for 15 mins before jetting off again. I complete my chores, camel up and then hike off again. I manage to pee again! It's 15 miles to Paradise Cafe which is where I want to be tomorrow. From there I'll try to hitch-hike to Idyllwild as a small section of the trail is closed due to a forest fire there last year. I hike on and somehow manage to catch and pass the three hikers. I motor through the next 10 miles, giving me an easy 5 mile hike tomorrow morning. I'll even get a lie-in as the cafe doesn't open till 8 am. I'm that deep in my thoughts that I pass by a little black snake and don't realize it's there till I hear it tumble from it's hiding place. It tumbles down the midi bank and stays coiled up protectively. We stare at each other under I move on. I reach my 10 miles and bed down in a cove of trees. I fall asleep with ease hearing the yell of coyotes somewhere out in the wilderness. I have a lovely view over the entire valley. I watch it in the twilight as the sun has just set.











Monday 25 May 2015

PCT Day 6

Day 6 - The kindness of Strangers - 11 miles

When I wake it's misty and damp with condensation layers my sleeping bag. Animals such rabbits and chipmunks scurry around. I get up at 6 am, hang my sleeping bag from the tree and wander down to the petrol station. If it is closed I'm hoping the helpful lady the trio talked of yesterday comes in to help hikers again. The petrol station is only a mile away and without my pack on it's great! It's a bit foggy still and the odd car speeds by giving me a wide birth. I hear yelping yowls ahead and see a coyote skirt the road, It's large ears twist up and he clocks me. I marvel at the sight of the mammal having never seen one before. then in an instant he's gone.
I walk on and fine the petrol station and golf park - which offered meals including breakfast, both closed but due to open for business soon! Darn~! The first instance of my book failing me due to it being published 3 years ago. I desperately needed to refuel. I walk back and wait for the others to wake and the center to open - which it doesn't. One of the girls checks her guide and says that there is a decent resupply shop about 9 miles from here, she gives it a quick call and they're open. I pack up and trio call a dial-a-bus service for a ride in Julian, a nearby town.
So off I go. I begin walking in the mid morning heat and reach the golf course again. I see a man emerge from the fog with a energetic little dog. We cross paths and he starts a conversation with me; about the trail, that I'm from England and the fact that I'm again to go walk 9 miles to the shop. I bid goodbye and walk on. I find a shaded patch under a tree and attempt to hitch hike. I'm pretty nervous as I've never hitchhiked before but people do this on the trail so I'll give it a go. Unfortunately every second person is on a bike as it's the bank holiday so I won't be getting a hitch off a biker and every car that drives by doesn't want to know. After ten minutes I'm a bit dishearten but still wiggle my thumb hopefully at everyone. Then I see a large white land-rover type vehicle slow. I look to the drivers side which is on the wrong side as it's an American car and see a small black dog sitting there, I look the actual driver and see the waving at me. I can't believe my luck! I wave back and rush over.

"Toss your pack in the back and get in the front" David says, he directs Duchess his dog into the back and allows me into the front seat. Duchess immediately climbs over and sits herself on my lap, her tongue lolling out, allowing the air-con to blast over her. We speed off to the shops and talk about why I'm out here, what job I did before, what job David had - a banking related job and a bit about the UK as David had been before. We pull up and David offers to drive me back if I want. Amazing! I drive in head first, my stomach excited about the prospect of food. I end up getting 2 bags of food, all bad for me and it is definitely a bad idea to shop on an empty stomach but I didn't care. David points out the deli and I waffle and omelet combination, not something I would normally order but I was pretty ravenous.
I scout the food shelves for anything else I needed and quickly paid. I probably had too much but I didn't care FOOOOD! The ride back is swift and I prepare my thank you speech in my head when David drives passed by drop off point and asks if I'd like to come in and have dinner with him. I pause, slightly hesitant. -and my wife he finished.

Amazing! I accept and David turns down a street lined with fancy houses. We pulls into a drive with an electronic gate and we scoot up the drive way. The house looks like it belongs in the Flintstones movie; large and white, deceiving in size. We pull up round the back and park up. A woman who must be David's wife appears. She wearing a cap with the New Zealand emblem on it and removes gardening gloves to great me. they welcome me inside and it feels like I've walked into an episode of cribs (when celebrities invite camera crews to check out their homes also known as cribs). Their living room, kitchen and dining room is open plan so it feels huge. There is a baby grand piano in one corner and an enormous fire in the other corner - I could have fit inside. Olivia, David's wife recommends that I sit on their balcony. It's in the shade but it's that hot it's nice and cool. I sit at a large table to eat my waffle and she brings out a pot of English tea! Followed by home-made pizza and fresh berries! They let me sit alone and I can't believe what has just happened to be honest. Once I'm done we chat briefly and they ask if I'd like to join them for lunch - Salmon salad?
Yes Please! - Olivia then asks if I'd like to use the guest shower.
I'm pretty sure my jaw dropped. She shows me their amazing twin bed guest room complete with en-suite, Wifi, and kettle with a selection of hot drink. They leave me to shower and I scrub down well. I'd never had such a welcomed shower before. I use the hotel sized soaps and wash my hair. Shame the clothes I was putting back on weren't clean but alas. I emerge a new person and help them lay the table. The meal is exceptionally pleasant as we talk of travel; all of us having been to New Zealand and various parts of Europe. The fresh salad and cool salmon made my taste buds tingle with excitement. We then move on to talking about family, life, England, America, the PCT, pets. Duchess watches me eat hopefully wishing I'd drop some her way. The time slowly creeps on and before I know it, it's 2pm. David and Olivia are heading to the gym but they drop me back on the trail. Olivia quickly tries to load me up with more goodies like apples and biscuits and comes laden with all her fruit flavoured waters to see which one I'd like to take. I'm extremely overwhelmed and graciously take one. I tag their location promising to myself to send them postcards when I could. We take a few photos and hug before I go - Myself extremely conscious of my sweaty hiker clothes.
I still can't believe my luck and pause under a bridge to collect my thoughts. I've also got to assimilate 2 bags worth of shopping into my pack. I take out my tent and carry it by hand again. After eating to night and tomorrow morning I should be able to fit it back inside. I walk on for a bit before sub-coming to the heat and hiding from the sun. I write up my morning in my journal and read my emails. Lots of tiny flies buzz around me. They are extremely annoying. I eventually walk on and make my way through the ins and outs of the trail, weaving across the crevasse of the rocky valleys. Then on the rare occasion I see another hiker. He is standing alone as I approach and seems oblivious to my presence. He appears to be of native America ascent. His name is Robyn and he has long black hair which is in pigtails. He is wearing a sleeveless and open top. His shoes appear to be hand-made sandals and don't look too comfy for long distance hiking. We chat for a bit then I hike on. The sun is beginning to sink lower over the verdant mountains, the air getting thankfully cooler as I plow on up the ascent, my bag heavy with a lot of greedy food.

I finally decided to stop in a little valley. I pierce my tin of baked beans and slowly open them disappointed to find that they've been flavoured by brown sugar... I set up my inner tent and see the bobbing head light of Robyn pace by. He waves wishing me good night, saying he is going to night hike a bit. I hadn't attempted hiking at night yet but was interested by the prospect. I watch the nights sky from the comfort of my sleeping bag and slowly drift off to sleep. It's a clear night and the pointy, crescent moon shines down on me. It's an extremely starry and I can see the plow. The land is still and I feel like the only creature for miles around.