PCT Day 38

Day 38

Miles - 20

I’m awake for 6am but don’t move till 6:30am and get hiking by 7am. I get within a mile from the top and pause to eat a packet of tuna and a cereal bar - separately. My hungry hits me early after only eating snacks yesterday and nothing for tea. I keep going and make it up and over and begin the long hike down towards lakes. The mozzies return and I swat them away and squash the ones that land on me. I have an early lunch of noodles by a river and keep going. It’s only a little bit further down then I start the slow climb up Mather Pass. I find a nice spot again and sit beside the river and soak my feet. They’re pretty hard which would explains why I haven’t had a blister in a while. There are no trees so there are thankfully no mozzies. I cut my toenails and clean them best I can. I then have chocolate sauce on tortilla wraps and brush my teeth.

I walk on and get to the base of Mather Pass. I’ve been climbing gradually and soon the steepness kicks in. It’s very rocky, both large and small but I keep moving rather than stopping a lot. From the base I can’t see the trail but once I got hiking it soon became apparent and did the usual zigzagging. At the top I find a man chilling with his eyes closed. We chat briefly. The man is called David and is taking a moment to enjoy the peace he has found here. I leave him to it and pass by to chill round the corner and catch up on my journal. I eat a mars bar as a marmot and chipmunks scurry about. Another guy walks by me and doesn’t notice me. I sit in the patchy sun and look out to the distance. Alpine-like trees wave at me, beckoning me onwards. Vast amounts of grey boulders are everywhere, they made the way up slightly slippery but not unmanageable. I finish writing and eventually make a move. The trail is pretty steep on the descent so I take it easy.

It’s a long descent. Down and down and down. Soon enough the mozzies return but I maintain a good pace. The view down the valley is amazing, encaved by a rocky wall, trees line the bottom and a booming waterfall flows right down the middle. I pass a hiker and we chat for a bit, then he asks if he can follow me down. He keeps up with me and says I hike fast. His name is Brian, he’s retired and he’s hiking the John Muir Trail for a 3rd time. We pass a few campsites and find a decent one next to Palisade Creek . We chat as we eat and call it a night at 8pm.

Day 39 here

PCT Day 37

Day 37

Miles - 25

I wake up and pack up swiftly and silently. Since I cowboy camped I’m quick to stuff my sleeping bag and foam mat away. I leave before Melo and today I’m hiking up Glen Pass which is a gradual hike up sandy coloured rocks and passed beautiful lakes then its gets a little steeper. Strange little rocks hamsters scurry around and stare at me as I pass. I eventually get to the top and chill for a bit. There are no mozzies up here so I can actually sit still for once. I much down on gummy sweet and relax. Air traffic passes over head and I watch tiny matchstick sized people ascend and descend. Random splotches of snow are present but they’re not serious. I don’t need my crampons.

Sparkling lakes dance in the sun and I head down. It’s actually a really long descent down and I arrive beside blue lakes with water so clean. I can see trout and the large stones at the bottom. I pass by and the midday sun arrives. Even though I frequently pass under trees, the sun still feels incredibly hot. I pause for water and sun cream and still I descend down and down which means I’ll have to ascend again. I arrive at a wobbly one man suspension bridge. The gateway to Pinchots Pass - a 3500 ft ascent which my guide book says is easy. It’s not too bad at first and I pass the 800 mile mark but then the mozzies arrive and I can’t pause for breath, food or water without these guy's attacking me. I feel like a deer that’s been bitten by a Komodo dragon and I’m being followed and waited upon as I slow down.

I make very slow progress and end up camping two miles from the top. I quickly put up my tent and put my bear canister at a distant. Then I dive into my tent exhausted. All I’ve eaten today are snacks. I see the mozzies bouncing off my inner tent, trying to insert their needles. I watch them pleased they can’t get me. It’s not going to rain so I’ve only put up the one layer of my tent. I get out my roll mat and sleeping bag with difficulty and unzip it. I’m so tired and fall asleep swiftly.

Day 38 here

PCT Day 36

 Day 36

Miles - 15

I wake up before anybody else and I’m on the trail for 5:30. It’s a few miles ascent then I join the Kearsarge Pass which is a 7 miles hike and 2000 ft to climb out and down into Onion Valley from there I can hitch 15 miles to Independent. I pass by several beautiful lakes. After being in the desert for 700 miles the glory of all the water never gets old and the lakes are incredibly blue. Since I was already at a decent height the descend doesn’t take that long to reach the gateway to the side trail. I meet York going out and we chat briefly. We met at Kennedy Meadows and share a similar trail name. He is section hiking and heading back to the trail. Up and up I climb, the path gravelly and slippery. I reach the saddle and look back behind at the greeny. I’ll be back by nightfall hopefully. Going down the other side seems to take forever. Down and down I go, it’s a popular area as I pass loads of people. A lady gives me some peanut butter spread and I pass a trail pack heading up. It consists of a man riding a horse and two donkeys following.

By the end of it my feet are ready for a rest. I hobble over to the water fountain and can’t seem to work the tap. A guy who was passing comes over and makes it work then he asks if I want a lift down. Easiest hitch ever! He waits for his brother and also two other PCT hikers. They are called Confucius and Melo. We put our bags in the back which is laden with logs and get in the back seats. We are still several 1000ft above town and my ears pop twice as we drive down. It’s a small town and he drops us at the petrol station. There are showers, laundry, a subway and a decent store to resupply at. I get a large tuna subway and refillable small drink. I charge up my phones and message people as I haven’t been in touch with for a weeks.

The group I camped with last night arrive and we claim the pavement/sidewalk and benches as hiker trashs commences. It’s so hot down at city level and we all wilt in the shade drinking beer. The majority of people are going to hitch or get bus to Bishop and go to the hostel there. Melo and I hitch back to the trail - to Onion Valley. There are others hikers waiting for a lift in the shade sitting down and lazily lifting a thumb at every car that drives by. Melo and I stand and wave energetically and we managed to get the first car. Three guys are heading up for a long wkd. We discuss what our last meals would be if we were on death row. I think mine would be a Sunday roast followed by cake and custard. It’s 5ish by the time we get there and a decent time to hike after the afternoon heat has faded. Back up I hike. I set off first and amaze myself with my stamina. I only stop twice! It felt a lot taller coming down today.  I’m amazed with what a large subway can do. It’s a nice hike up and I loose the sun on my way up. Once at the top I’m bathed in sunlight again on the other side. I chill on the top and Melo overtakes - he is scared of heights so doesn’t want to stop. I start my period. I walk down and camp at the bottom next to Kearsarge lakes. Melo is already there with his tent. The moon is huge and bathes everything is light.

Day 37 here