PCT Day 37

Day 37

Miles - 25

I wake up and pack up swiftly and silently. Since I cowboy camped I’m quick to stuff my sleeping bag and foam mat away. I leave before Melo and today I’m hiking up Glen Pass which is a gradual hike up sandy coloured rocks and passed beautiful lakes then its gets a little steeper. Strange little rocks hamsters scurry around and stare at me as I pass. I eventually get to the top and chill for a bit. There are no mozzies up here so I can actually sit still for once. I much down on gummy sweet and relax. Air traffic passes over head and I watch tiny matchstick sized people ascend and descend. Random splotches of snow are present but they’re not serious. I don’t need my crampons.

Sparkling lakes dance in the sun and I head down. It’s actually a really long descent down and I arrive beside blue lakes with water so clean. I can see trout and the large stones at the bottom. I pass by and the midday sun arrives. Even though I frequently pass under trees, the sun still feels incredibly hot. I pause for water and sun cream and still I descend down and down which means I’ll have to ascend again. I arrive at a wobbly one man suspension bridge. The gateway to Pinchots Pass - a 3500 ft ascent which my guide book says is easy. It’s not too bad at first and I pass the 800 mile mark but then the mozzies arrive and I can’t pause for breath, food or water without these guy's attacking me. I feel like a deer that’s been bitten by a Komodo dragon and I’m being followed and waited upon as I slow down.

I make very slow progress and end up camping two miles from the top. I quickly put up my tent and put my bear canister at a distant. Then I dive into my tent exhausted. All I’ve eaten today are snacks. I see the mozzies bouncing off my inner tent, trying to insert their needles. I watch them pleased they can’t get me. It’s not going to rain so I’ve only put up the one layer of my tent. I get out my roll mat and sleeping bag with difficulty and unzip it. I’m so tired and fall asleep swiftly.

Day 38 here

PCT Day 36

 Day 36

Miles - 15

I wake up before anybody else and I’m on the trail for 5:30. It’s a few miles ascent then I join the Kearsarge Pass which is a 7 miles hike and 2000 ft to climb out and down into Onion Valley from there I can hitch 15 miles to Independent. I pass by several beautiful lakes. After being in the desert for 700 miles the glory of all the water never gets old and the lakes are incredibly blue. Since I was already at a decent height the descend doesn’t take that long to reach the gateway to the side trail. I meet York going out and we chat briefly. We met at Kennedy Meadows and share a similar trail name. He is section hiking and heading back to the trail. Up and up I climb, the path gravelly and slippery. I reach the saddle and look back behind at the greeny. I’ll be back by nightfall hopefully. Going down the other side seems to take forever. Down and down I go, it’s a popular area as I pass loads of people. A lady gives me some peanut butter spread and I pass a trail pack heading up. It consists of a man riding a horse and two donkeys following.

By the end of it my feet are ready for a rest. I hobble over to the water fountain and can’t seem to work the tap. A guy who was passing comes over and makes it work then he asks if I want a lift down. Easiest hitch ever! He waits for his brother and also two other PCT hikers. They are called Confucius and Melo. We put our bags in the back which is laden with logs and get in the back seats. We are still several 1000ft above town and my ears pop twice as we drive down. It’s a small town and he drops us at the petrol station. There are showers, laundry, a subway and a decent store to resupply at. I get a large tuna subway and refillable small drink. I charge up my phones and message people as I haven’t been in touch with for a weeks.

The group I camped with last night arrive and we claim the pavement/sidewalk and benches as hiker trashs commences. It’s so hot down at city level and we all wilt in the shade drinking beer. The majority of people are going to hitch or get bus to Bishop and go to the hostel there. Melo and I hitch back to the trail - to Onion Valley. There are others hikers waiting for a lift in the shade sitting down and lazily lifting a thumb at every car that drives by. Melo and I stand and wave energetically and we managed to get the first car. Three guys are heading up for a long wkd. We discuss what our last meals would be if we were on death row. I think mine would be a Sunday roast followed by cake and custard. It’s 5ish by the time we get there and a decent time to hike after the afternoon heat has faded. Back up I hike. I set off first and amaze myself with my stamina. I only stop twice! It felt a lot taller coming down today.  I’m amazed with what a large subway can do. It’s a nice hike up and I loose the sun on my way up. Once at the top I’m bathed in sunlight again on the other side. I chill on the top and Melo overtakes - he is scared of heights so doesn’t want to stop. I start my period. I walk down and camp at the bottom next to Kearsarge lakes. Melo is already there with his tent. The moon is huge and bathes everything is light.

Day 37 here

PCT Day 35

Day 35

Miles - 22

I sleep in today as does BLT. Well I say sleep in, I don’t start walking till 8am, no signs  of life from BLT so I pack quietly. It’s cold outside but I don’t mind though as the meadow is a lovely place to waste time. The deer have gone. I pass through the meadow silently and cross the river using stepping stones. I’m heading up and over Forrester Pass today. Its 13200 ft, the highest point of the PCT. I don’t think it’s going to be a bad climb as I start the serious part at 11000 ft. It’s a slow ascent up though and I climb a bit in the morning and get ten miles in. I pass by a few rivers and shady woods and begin the slow treeless walk up. It’s not steep at all and I gain a few 100 feet over 3-4 miles. Lots of John Muir hikers pass me, we exchange the usual nods. It’s getting hotter and neither of us want to stop.

I hike by a beautiful lake which shimmers in the sun, it’s completely out in the open, just standing alone and I would love to go for a swim. After a while no one is around and it’s just me and the mountains. I pass a few lakes which I think are glaciers and see the odd marmot. I’m walking on the hard stoney mountain as the sandy path fades. I can’t see where it goes until I’m right at the base, its does the usual zig zag ascent and I begin. I’m very slow as per usual but I keep going. 

The scenery grows with each step and pairs of grey and red birds flit and play. I don’t see anyone till I’m at the top. A group of guys are waiting, they’ve been there a while as they wait for some of their group to catch up. I take a few photos then begin my speedy descent to make up time. I poke the snow with my yucca sticks and keep going. I pass exhausted ascenders and the pair who are with the group at the top - the ones they were waiting for and one if suffering majorly from altitude sickness. I park up next to the lovely flowing river, drink and eat, then I speed down through the valley of  trees, it’s 4.5 miles to the Middle Vidette campsite. I’m glad it’s all down hill. Happy because it makes a change from going up and also because I can go faster and outrun the mosquitos which hound me. Down in the valley below I can see huge clusters of dark green trees. They cover everything and look still and welcoming.

I speed along and don’t see any others till I get to the campsite where there are a large of group of hikers who’ve all come together along the way. I join them round the campfire which is keeping mozzies away. One hiker attempts to make Ethiopian fire bread then another catches a trout which we cook and eat. We pile our bear canisters by the fire and head off to sleep one by one. It feels good to cowboy camp. I lay there content as colourful cocoons of the others sleeping bags lay here and there. The sound of the furious river storms by. I hear the occasional mozzie buzz by but I remain unaffected.

Day 36 here