PCT Day 21

Day 21

15 miles

Eventually I get up and move under the gazebo where another guy is, then Gummi bear and the couple appear. The rain having awaken them early too. We move stuff around and get things out the rain. Then Terrie our trail angel invites us inside for pancakes. Amazing! We all sit around watching the news as the dogs watch us eat. We chill and we’re all very slow to get ready.

Were off by 12ish and Terrie points out parts of the town and how close her home was to a forest fire only 2 miles away. She drops us off at the local market and gives us all tight hugs. I say goodbye to the others and buy some food to post to Kennedy Meadows. I get talking to 3 guy outside who are all scratching money cards. They offered me a ride so I accept and they drive me to the post office. I don’t remember all their names but one was called Eddie and the dog was called Amber. The post office is closed for an hour over lunch so we all go for a ride on a dirt track. We head a few miles down the road and turn off up a hill. Were sliding all over the pace. My seatbelt doesn't work so I just tuck it under my arms. We skid to a stop and can see the Mojave desert, more wind turbines and a salt dried lake. We chat about English and American things like brolly/umbrella and then we are returning down to the road.

We goes skidding all over the place, the dog being held thankfully by one of the guys. My bag is in the hatchback and is bouncing all over the place. My food bags have exploded everywhere. We have two epic skids and return to the post office. I dash in, pack my food and mail it. I buy some postcard stamps too. The guys drive me to the edge of town and plan to drop me off there. We speed there doing a ridiculous speed and leave our seats as he speeds over a bump in the road. I’m pleased to be heading off on my own. I say goodbye and start my road walk.

It's about ten miles to the trail then I notice another road that cuts out even more time. So I decide to take that. I try to hitch but no one stops so I just walk the whole route. It rains a bit but at least it's not too hot, not sunny at all. I watch a vulture eagle fly over, its huge. I walk pass large ranches dried out by the draught, they all look derelict. I reach the main road and turn left. Its half a mile to Hiker Town which is an actual town made for hikers. It's someones house and land with lots of self made wooden shacks and static caravans smelling of damp.

I wander in and sit down next to some hikers and eat my noodles and a poptart. I’m hungrier than I first thought. I check my miles and see I’m at mile 518. It begins to rain and then I see Puss in boots and we hang out. We retreat into the garage where there are sofas and a shower which I use. I’m so sleepy after my lack of sleep I begin to fall asleep right there. A few more people come in and chill before the lights go off at 9 - hiker 1am. It's pitch black in the garage. I drift in and out of sleep and it's so dark so I keep thinking it's later then is it. I need the natural day light to be my clock.

Day 22 here

 

PCT Day 20

Day 20

24 miles

Up for 5am and were all up. Were hiking in the dark and getting the 2 miles road walk out of Agua Dulce done. We get to the hills and begin ascending up. The sun is just beginning to warm the hills and I speed up trying to make as much ground as I can to avoid ascending climb in the heat. It's a slow climb but I eventually get to the top where we all regroup and descend to the water. It's a slow trickle and 2 other hikers are already there. There's a queue but once I have the water with my steripen I’m able to cleanse my water fast and am walking again swiftly. Wasps and flies swarm around the water so I’m glad to be away.

It a downhill walk and I arrive at a road. I pause to see to a blister then walk on and up again through the heat. I dodge the sun behind bushes every so often. Puss in boots and Gummi bear pass me but I eventually reach the top. To then head down and relax in the Oasis shade with Gummi bear. It's not really shady but it’s better than nothing. The couple join us and we all nap for 2 hours until 2pm. We snack on food and set off one by one. I decided to make my own way via the dirt track road which eventually meets the road. It’s all downhill which is lovely and it takes me about 40 mins until I hit the outskirts of the town. I walk past a dead racoon and keep going. I’m so happy this route worked.

I reach the town shop and head in. Two women are chatting at the counter and 3 kids are running around. I get a large pepsi, some milk, more sunglasses and a straw hat, finally - been needing this hat for a while. I walk on and make my way to Casa de Luna - hiker trash heaven. The roads are thankfully shaded by trees and I see an open front garden and it looks like heaven. Surprisingly it’s empty and I enter passing the tables and cushioned sofas, power plugs, recycling, stones which you can paint and a massive white sheet to sign. I head up to the door and ring the doorbell. A large guy with a slight beard answers and welcomes me. He points out where I can sit, the rules, shower with fresh towels and where to camp.

I chill for a bit pleased to have made it. I video call a friend and wonder where everyone is. I then have shower which is fed by a hose and heated by a gas cylinder. I wash my underware and me and chill out in the front garden. I clean my feet and sort out my blisters listening to Apocalyptica as the other roll in 2 hours later. So glad I road walked. I get amused verbal abuse from Gummibear who curses me and wishes he’d come with me now.

We sit around as everyone relaxing - the couple and Gummi bear get showers and we all wear hawaiian shirts. Mrs Anderson comes out and sorts tea. Nachos and dip, salad, sauce and cheese - all together and it’s satisfying. I obviously eat loads and then there is fruit. So much food! I feel good, my feet feel good. We all sit around chatting about hiking. Casa de Luna is such a lovely place it’s going to be hard to leave. We talk until half 9 - which is way pass hiker midnight and eventually peel off to bed one by one. Everyone is encamped round the back and I try to sleep on the large hammock in the front but can’t get comfy. I then eventually fall asleep on the random bed that's outside. I think I fall asleep at midnight before awakening at 4 am due to a small rain shower. It goes and I’m able to fall back to sleep and wake at 6am when the rain gets heavier.

Day 21 here

PCT Day 19

Day 19
Miles - 10

It feels so good to sleep in and chill. I inevitably wake before the crack of dawn but relish at the decision to stay here till after the midday heat. Roadrunner heads off early and a freight train speeds by at 4am and coyotes yell and cry in the distance. Poptart left the night before, determined to keep her miles high. We were all awake by 5 am, I can hear Walken and Puss in Boots chatting away loudly, Noah appears having slept in the bushes nearby. We chill pleased not to be in a rush to go.

We chat, eat, stretch, got for showers again, wait for the shop to open and be happy. We head to the shop when it opens and I buy some food then we are offered food; a lot of pancakes to be exact from the boy scouts. There were three large trays of them with fruit and milk and orange juice so good. I had 6 then I had a few more later and free cake. So much food….. It’s so hot, pushing 40℃ so we just spend the day relaxing or rather wilting in the shade. I nap and vaguely plan things. Hikers roll in and a few roll out. I’m trying to push it as far as I can to avoid the heat. I eventually say bye to people and head out at half 3 and its still so hot.

Pussin boots over takes me and I flag behind, a few miles in and I lay down in the shade of the hill side and just lay on the trail. I’m so knocked out by the heat and the direct sun light. I eventually head up and climb over the hill. Thankfully it’s beginning to get cooler. I enter Vasquez rocks where a few things were filmed like Star trek and The Flintstones. It's awesome but not as awesome as entering permanent shade. The names of plants are sign posted along the way and the rocks are funky shapes and have many layers within them. I have about 4 miles left to go and enter a cool drain pipe.

I make it out and head up into Aqua Dulce known as Sweet water and take a short cut but a road isn’t there so I end up walking an extra mile. I road walk and eventually get to the grocery store. Everyone, the couple, Gummibear and Puss in boots are eating dinner. I buy my food at the store and quickly pack it into my bag. We fill our water and decided to camp next to the grocery store on the sandy land there. It’s still really warm from the day and the night is starry.

>>

I can’t quite put my finger on it and don’t think I’ll ever be able to be but there is something about hiking or maybe just moving under your own steam from one place to the other and sleeping in the dirt, surrounded by good company. Even with your own company I find it rewarding. As I lay there that night I felt at one with everything. Even though I was sleeping on some disused land, next to the shops as cars drove by through the town. It felt completely normal and right and  the stars were immense that night. I lay there watching them as I slowly fell asleep.

Day 20 here