Dales Way Day 3

Day 3
23.73miles - 38.2km

Up quite early and were walking by 5:30 am. Topping up our water we begin our road walk through Cowgill and up beneath the viaduct. A lovely aurora dawn surrounded us as we ascended. A deep dark forest emerged on our right. We stopped for photos and food and soon realised that the midges were still out. We marched up the road fleeing the tiny beasts. We were now pretty high and had a good view of the surrounding area. A golden light shone over the hills and we turned off the road and met a path into the moorland. Long green strands of pointy grass covered everything and we inevitably got wet feet. We followed the trail up over the moorland as Pen-y-ghent came into view. Over numerous stiles and we finally arrived at the descent. We passed a farm with a sign welcoming us in for cake and a drink, we would if we hadn't been there at 7.30 am. 

Walking down a track we met a major road. Crossing it we got to the track on the other side. Through cow and sheep fields we headed up and up and its was endless. You think you're there and you're not, we stopped close to the top and ate our lunch allowing our feet to breath before hiking on. I powered on to the top as a few vans and trucks passed us. Heading into the logging site, a Pennine way thru hiker - passed us. We then headed down into a valley, our feet getting water logged. This was the highest point on the Dales Way. This was also when Tom my brother realises that he’s left his car keys in my car which is back in Winderemere.... I laughed as we are pretty much half way between Windermere and Ilkley. We trudged on gutted. Luckily this haze didn't stay for long as we pondered way to get the keys or spare keys. 

We hiked on and reach Oughtenshaw, another stunning hamlet. It was beautiful and on the way out we saw a deer grazing on the opposite hill. We descended down into another hamlet, crossed a river and follow it. We got to a pub called the George Inn where the kind land lord lets us use the landline and got us bus timetable. 
We were going to have to speed up our walking as Tom had managed to get in touch with a friend who was going to be in Ilkley tomorrow at 15 pm and was going to bring the spare keys. We decided to play it safe and get bus from Buckden to Grassington. It was sad to cutting out about 10 miles but this was a pick up we did not want to miss.

It didn't take long to reach Buckton where we got an ice cream and chilled in the Buck Inn where Tom sampled their Ales. We got the bus and sat back feeling a tad guilty as we cruised by the lovely and sunny views outsides. The miles we were suppose to be hiking....

Grassington was only 10 miles away but we felt justified in skipping it. Its was a smooth ride and at Grassington we got some food and devoured it on a bench. We then hiked on and walked easily to a field just before Barden castle where we wild camped. It was easy evening walk and lovely to do again as I'd walked this section back in May.

 

Day 4 here

 

Dales Way Day 1

Day 1
14 miles - 22.5 km

After preparing for a few weeks the grand 4 days or so was about to begin. My brother was driving to Ilkley and would leave his car there. We would then drive to Bowness on Windermere to the start. Once together we set off. It was a smooth drive to the Lake District. Even though rain accompanied us, once we were out on the other side it cleared. When we got to Bowness we hit huge crowds of tourists and traffic. I’d totally forgotten it was the summer holidays which were combined with the tourists. We drove round a few times until I found a verge out of the town to park my car. My car who is called Oyo is old and currently had no back seats making her an undesirable object to steal. I hoped! It was a 15 min walk back into the town and up the slight hill to the start.

Up the road and to the stone seat which read Ilkley 81 miles. After the small hill we were already taking off layers. A few walkers passed us and I asked for a starting snapshot. Time to walk! It’s was a gradual start as we followed the rocky path up to our first kissing gate of many. And our first bramble bush and raspberries bush! Never seen so many wild raspberries. We proceeded to devour them as we walked. Following the signposts we marched on and gained height.

We passed a few people and two women who were also hiking the route. It was nice to see other people walking the trail - I think doing the Wolds way/Cleveland way in spring we missed other hikers, plus the Dales way is quite popular. We chatted briefly before they headed down to the finish. Sheep stared as we passed them. We carefully closed all the hand made gates behind us. Since we set off just before lunch we decided to have lunch 2 hours into our hike. It consisted of a tortilla wrap with meat slices, cheese and polish peppery sausage. This was accompanied with chicken and mayo sandwich, a clementine and a cereal bar. The sun then decided to come out so we blathered on some sun cream. We were using the hand drawn map in the guide book map backwards since we were doing the trail backwards. Down a track road and then up again. I stared at the stone house, there were so many and they were all stunning. We got to the town of Burneside and missed the turning and ended up walking on the road. Its had a pavement so weren't road walking the entire town. We passed a pub, school, church, train station and a convenience store so it was a quite a decent sized little town.

We rejoined the Way and had to contend with our first of two diversions due to bridges being washed away in the December floods - Storm Desmond. We followed the diverted road and come across a plot of land that’s gone back in time...

~
 A swing hangs from an ancient oak over a grassy area. An artificial caterpillar made from several balls of twinned wood curls it way up a branch. Two child-sized fold out chairs sit beside a pond. A bicycle is in the courtyard on it’s stand. All the doors to the buildings are open. The first is the house and as I pass by I can’t help but gawp at the content. The wooden windows frames hold a single pane glass. Dust and cobwebs cling to them. Old fashioned sinks and taps sit in the window. An orange wall and tall white creepers plant against it. Opposite the house a tall beautiful white mill sits. I peer inside and see a workshop of wood. A worker's bench sits surrounded by wood filings. About 30 different numbers plates are nailed to the door. I didn’t realise how big it was. It was 5 floors high. I would love to roam about it rooms. Breath in the unique artifacts, touch the year of ages encrusted to it. It’s all lovely. The bridge we have to cross is wooden and actually closed. Red banners are draped over it blocking people. It’s doesn’t look too bad so we go for it. A couple hiking the way with their grandson told us they crossed it without any trouble.
 ~

I took a photo and we continued on our way. Up a lengthy cement track which seems never ending. One continuous slog. I’m sweating at the top. Passed a white house and we arrived at the top. We took a breather and can see the hills of the Lake District behind us. Next we passed the black moss tarn and we met a second diversion. It lead us down into a hamlet and we took the first right. Big mistake. We ended up passing some houses and entered a field of sheep. We fence hopped and go up to the main road again. We figured out where we went wrong and head back to the start of the diversion. I took a photo of the diversion and off we go again taking the second right.

We reached a field brimming with long lush grass and plump white fluffy sheep. Down we went and met the road. Crossing it and we happen upon the 100ths beautiful farm house of the day. Barn houses, out houses, grand farm house. We passed through and appreciated their stunning lawn. I need to get water so we stopped at the bridge and I filled my bottle. Then we heard shouting and turned to see two men and 3 excited dogs. He called to us and at first I thought that we’d upset them somehow. Amazingly he was offering his lawn for us to camp on and gave us access to his toilet and provided us with deck chairs.

It reminds me back to the PCT where people often quote: The Trail Provides.

Day 2 here

Wild camping in the Yorkshire Dales

Day 1

It's a year to the day that I left home to America where I began the PCT.  A year later I find myself in the Yorkshire Dales out for a bimble. The weather is set to be bleak but I didn't want to stay cooped up in the hostel so I packed up a few things and headed off. I had a vague idea where I was going. 

My bag felt pretty heavy but I guess that was due to a slow climb to the top of Weets top. It was pretty sunny - so far so good. Once at the top I turned left and started towards Park House a lovely stone farm house. I pass through and startle two young children, their toys scattered everywhere. Next I enter a crowded sheep field and enjoy the sun. The track leads me down into a valley and I follow the road which goes up and out the other side of the valley. A lapwing calls at me and I see 4 fluffy chicks scurrying this way and that, all unsure of where to go.  I keep moving and the mother relaxes. For the moment I am chasing a dark cloud on the horizon, my path behind is illuminated by sunlight. Sadly this all changes as a few patters of rain hits me. I add layers of waterproofs, head down and march. 

The rain comes down hard and I get soaked. I come close to a village and see some farm space being built and a large trailer of some kind which is bone-dry beneath. I dive under it and am able to sit up comfortably.

 Sitting on rocky ground, my clothes are hanging all around me drying. The sun is trying to make it one last time through the clouds. It succeeds and casts faint golden rays over the land allowing the sheep and lambs to enjoy the last moments of warmth. You wouldn't have known it was pouring down half an hour ago. I read a bit of my book before getting too tired and drift off.

Day 2

I wake on and off through the night with the moon at one point illuminating everything. When I finally enter a deep sleep its 5 am and my alarm goes off. I'm slow to pack up and by 5:20 am I'm walking.

I layer-up to get warm and head out.  Low clouds hang over the town as I follow the road towards Linton.

I startle some sheep and end up following their hoove-worn path by accident and get a little lost in the process. I reach a road and head down - the wrong way, so quickly a-about turn and go the right way. I reach a tiny village - it's petite and very English. Large cottage and baskets of greenery everywhere. I head out and follow the short crossroads towards Linton Falls. A man driving a lorry sees me - for the second time and points me in the right direction. It's 6 am and I'm understandably the only one here in this pitiful dreary morning. It's very wide and a heron takes flight as I arrive. I take a few snaps and hike on. 

There is something awesome about hiking first thing. Its only you and the path, nature, early morning wildlife, the dawning sun, no cars, no one. I plod along and enter fields brimming with sheep and lambs. A foot bridge/mini suspension bridge hangs over the river and sways as I get to the middle. I swap sides over the River Wharfe and coast down the Dales Way - which I'm hoping to hike this summer. It looks awesome! The path seems to go back in time and as moss covers everything and plants line the banks. 

An old metal railing leads up some old worn down stone steps and I keep going. The river becomes more turbulent and creates deep groves in the limestone. I reach the village of Burnsall and have breakfast and use the very convenient toilets. I cross over the road and reach the grassy embankment. The clouds still hang love the hills. Rabbits make their homes in the sandy river wall reminding me of the places I'd like to travel too where people lived in the walls. I pass tiny blue flowers with yellow centers and wish I knew their names - forget me nots?

I get out my food for free book and see what you can eat out here. The path then enters the Bolton Estate which is full of Oak trees. The river grows in size and danger. A little home made shack appears selling various hand crafted things. It turns out to be run by this gentleman and a very unexpectedly but welcomed find.  I reach civilization in the form of a pavilion selling tasty smelling food but I stick with my cold yet satisfying cous-cous. Only 1 mile till the abbey. I go and follow the gentle ups and down a of the path. I reach a tree with rock climbing hand grips nailed all the way up. The abbey then comes into view which looks very grand despite it's decadent status. It's free to wander inside. I wander around its ancient walls and see the fragile yet defiant flowers clinging there. Somehow managing to grow out of the stone. 

I stop for lunch and 2 brave ducks sit at my feet knowing I have food..

Next I leave the estate and head up into the hills to the moors. I enter a beautiful wood full of bluebells and verdant leaves. I take it very slow not wanting to miss anything. It zigzags up and down and I soon enter a huge field of sheep. Again the wind picks up and I do battle to the reach the moor. The isolation and change of scenery is welcomed and lapwings twist and dive making their unique metal-detector cries. It's meant to rain at 5 pm so I hike on. I'm hoping to find some large boulder type grit stone to rest under when I see a few huts dotted on the horizon. I check the map and they turn out to be shooting huts. I hike on to meet them and see a dry, wind-free place for the night complete with benches and tables. And it starts to rain. I climb inside and its only 3 pm. If it stops raining maybe I can head out for a wander and leave my bag. I want to see more of this place before I leave tomorrow. I'm planning on getting the early bus and doing a bit of shopping.

The rain patters down and I chill varying between emails, reading, writing, map plotting, napping and eating. I'm asleep by 9:30 pm and wake briefly. It's hazy throughout the night and faintly bright.

Day 3

I wake at 4:30 am and snooze till 5:15 am. I debate getting the early bus, change my mind and opt for the afternoon one. I pack up and head out in to the heart of the moor. Rain patters down periodically but its not too bad. I head towards upper Barden reservoir and walk around its edge. Loads of birds loiter and the noise is tremendous. Love reservoirs. I continue upwards and follow the track. A grouse startles and runs out in front of me. I see her chicks to the left of me as she feigns an injured wing to distract me. Low clouds hang across the moor, showering me a damp sprinkle. Crags spring out here and there. I past a tiny hut.

I'm more than half way round now and reach a memorial stone. I pause for lunch or rather brunch. Then I reach the cross roads where I've been before and follow the main path and head gradually towards Embsay reservoir. I pass another 2 grouse huts and take shelter briefly. Good to know they're there. I speed into Embsay and head home ready for a bath.