Friday, 4 August 2017

Living in one of Japans most notorious neighbourhoods

Compared to London where I use to live or the numerous towns and cities I’ve wandered
through during my travelling life. I’ve somehow ended up living in the apparently notorious slum of Nishinari. Everyone I speak to recoils with shock and horror when I utter where I live. Words such as abunai (dangerous) and honto (really?) are the instant responses from Japanese people I meet in my everyday life. I just smile and soon begin to wonder am I just naive?

If there are this many people saying this to me it must be right, honto?

I was determined to not let others fears imprint on me……

Open land is rare here, like many major cities and Osaka isn’t the exception. Though I have somehow found myself in front of a patch of greeny. Several benches sit dotted around the edge, a sand pit, old exercise structures remain. A metal fence sits around the edge, these are 5 meters high and I wonder if it’s for rogue baseballs or to keep the high number of homeless out…

Every morning a trio of elderly men meet up and make several laps of the park. Sometimes they over take, sometimes they keep in formation, sometimes one will tap out and watch a lap before jumping back in. I first discovered their exercise regime/game upon hearing a raucous laughter coming from the outside, My Japanese is a work in progress and understanding the kansai dialect is another ball game altogether. It is lovely to hear them talk or bicker regardless. They joke loudly and make animated gestures which are injokes and result in more contagious laughter. They continue this amusing banter as they pace their way around the park keeping their fitness up. After which they all rest on a bench in the sun and continue their chin-wagging regaling old ventures. I can only imagine what they relive. Past adventures, lovers, dreams, desires or perhaps just local gossip.

Other local residents include the huge flock of house sparrows who served as homesickness relief when I first landed here. They flit over the rooftops. Hopping and bouncing seeking dozy flies. They search in tiny groups but regroup to chit and chat loudly. Perhaps swapping details of the current hot spots for food and decent nesting sites, I can only guess.

I work in a busy guest house and often find the solitude I need on the roof. Only the gentle humming of the washing machines are the only disturbance I get up there. Besides the guest house sits a derelict home. It is slowly succumbing to the affects of weathering and neglect. Inside I’ve only seen the residents cats arguing and bickering. An assortment of rotting wood, greying cement and wonkey tiles cling to the slanted roof. Considering the area maybe I should be surprised there are not more haikyos (derelict places). A part of me would like to wander inside and peruse the past lives spent there. Where are they now? How did it become derelict?

Being one of the poorest district in Japan it naturally accumulates a lot of homeless people. These vagabonds are no bother though unlike others I’ve known. They keep to themselves and have their own spot where they sleep each night in the four meter wide roofed corridors which links the shops and streets whilst providing shelter from the rain.
They sleep surrounded by their personal belongings; books, magazines, half price bento boxed, beer cans, empty sake glasses, porn, bags of empty cans waiting to be exchanged for yen, clothes, bikes to the lucky ones. Some make cardboard walls and bury themselves in various blankets and sleeping bags. Their shoes sit undisturbed just outside their wall. When I walk to the 24h supermarket I pass them sleeping and marvel at their endurance to bear the cold each night. Never have I worried about them, they discretely observe me and as I pass I them. Occasionally after they’re been drinking they’ll shout “herro!”  But this is probably out of excitement at seeing a gaijin (foreigner) and a sudden outburst. I return the friendly gesture with a cheery wave and smile.

Precisely two streets behind my home is the red light district. Walking through here during the day you’ll believe that everyday was a national holiday. All the shutters are down and the neighbourhood is quiet. Come night though and you’d question where you had suddenly found yourself. Golden lanterns illuminate the streets and up come the metal shutters. Inside sits a madam or mistress. A mature woman who was clearly stunning in her youth and still retains the glamour of her former days. She sits poised waiting for the next customer with money to burn. Mirrors sit strategically positioned allowing her to spot these walking wallets to give maximum beckoning and encouragement to approach.

Behind the mistress sits a new generation of the lady in red. All are different to suit the varied tastes of customers that pass through. Some girls wear school uniforms, some kimonos, other fantasy, others lingerie and then night gowns. Whatever you desire you’ll find it here. They wear layers of makeup to enhance their beauty, their hair is perfect, their eyes making contact with every potential customer. Some preen with large oval mirrors, some watch hoping for maybe a gentle lover, others wave and smile. The rest watch as a strange, lone, female gaijin passes through on her way home.
Of course prostitution is illegal in Japan. The apparent way to bypass this is for the girl to “fall in love” with the customer so it appears legit - in some way. Of course money is still exchanged so I’m not sure how that part is bypassed. Perhaps something about the resident Yakuza has helps turned a blind eye. I can only surmise.

Another marvel found only in Osaka is the collection of cheap supermarkets known as Tamade or Supa Tamade for the huge 24h ones. Here you will find all walks of life, normally near the dodgie end of the scale. Nevertheless I’ve never had a problem. Come 8 pm the stores suddenly fill with people trying to buy the half prices goods mainly bento boxes and bakery boxes. A midnight wander to the Supa Tamade should be included on all tourists itineraries to experience the delights of the neon lights and firework themed outer display. The looping prerecorded voice bellows over the the loudspeaker which spouts a few phrases without choice to the customer ears.

The sheltered passageways of the shopping arcades invite a whole host of visitors to their doors. The transition from day to night is again stark. Cheap clothes with bright sales tags, open stalled vegetable and fruit shops spill out onto the front, liquor brimmed shelves competing with the plentiful vending machines. Cosy, intimate bars awaken at night allowing the lone men to be doted on by pretty hostesses and sing to the heart's content - for 100Y a song.

The bath houses are open all throughout the day, some till 1am. I usually head over at 11pm and stay over till after midnight. Taking full advantage of the steam room, sauna with tv, the cold plunge pool, the jacuzzi and jet area, the pulse pool which feels unnerving, the mineral pool and my personal favourite, the outdoor pool. All of these delights are obviously enjoyed after a thorough wash by the shower hose and tap area. I smile and make limited conversation with the tiny 30kg elderly lady as we sit side by side in the nude washing. The tattooed covered lady smiles at me and gives me the hairdryer after seeing my long hair. We exchange a little Japanese and smile. She has obviously Yakuza ties but is completely normal to me.

Of course as I write all this from my rooftop position these are still people here who want to do good.  It’s not all doom and gloom here. The park that I overlook is tended to by an unnamed local. He faithfully opens and locks the park everyday at 10am and 4pm. I can time my watch by him. He litter picks the careless left overs from others and with pride makes sure everything is as it should be.
And it’s not just him. I’ve seen teams of people adorn with orange stripes picking up litter and placing them into the correct containers on wheels. Even the cigarette butts are collected. The area though once bleak and depressing is on its way up and out of the doom. Redevelopment and new businesses are springing up, tourists flock to the area due to cheap accommodation, the coming Olympics too will aid the growth of the area.     

I've spent eight months here and will miss the place when I leave. It has grown under my skin and left its imprint there. I will not forget the people I've met here from all walks of life and nationalities, the nightly bimbles and karaoke binges, the summer heat.

Everything will come with me as leave to explore more of Japan.  

Saturday, 8 July 2017

Radio Interview - Pacific Crest Trail

So after I hiked the Pacific Crest Trail I somehow found myself on the radio - Live!
It was such a great ten little minute slot and despite my nervousness
 I somehow manage to sound coherent and natural. It was a great experience and
fantastic to be able to share my adventure with others.

It was recorded on the 5th of November 2015.

I'd also recommend to watch the video below too. It was made by a fellow hiker
who set out to not only hike the trail but to make a video revolving around the Dr Seuss' poem 
 - Oh! The places you'll go. He filmed various hikers along the trail saying a line each of the poem.
See if you can spot me.

~ Thank you for watching and reading. ~

Thursday, 1 June 2017

Top Adventurers I follow

Adventurers who I follow

Below are a few travellers/adventurers/venturers/explorers that I follow with a keen interest.

  • Carrot Quinn
    Carrot Quinn is the reason I cut my adventures in south and east Asia short to journey to the United States in order to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Through her blog alone she inspired me to get to the United States/Mexican border in time to begin the mighty migration north to Canada. Slightly bonkers I know.
    Her writing is so captivating, I've spent many hours connected to the wifi reading her daily online journal entries as she hiked on. She loved the PCT the much that she has hiked it twice and has gone onto hike other long distance trails.

    As well as long distance hiking, in her 20s Quinn spent her time riding freight trains all over north America.

  • Iohan Gueorguiev
    I can't remember how I first discovered Iohan Gueorguiev's Youtube channel but I am pretty happy I did! He creates 30 minute episodes where he combines all the footage from his recent long distance biking and kayaking trips and allows the viewer to feel like they are allow for the ride as well. He has ventured into some of the worlds most secluded and beautiful places. He is amazingly honest about life and this I feel in contagious to everyone he meets on the road as they welcome him with open arms and doors. He shows to us that the world isn't a scary place as the news makes it to be.

  • An Aimless Hitchhiker
    Now this blog title does exactly what it says as it follows a lone traveller as she journeys throughout the world.

    Her blog is a mix of hitchhiking, travelling, hiking and general inspirational posts encouraging other people to go out into the world and see it for themselves. Lisa who is originally from the UK explores the world freely limiting her impact on it and encouraging others to do the same.
    One of her main goals is to encourage other women to travel without fear and break the norm of society expectations.
  • Liz Clark
    Liz Clark has been exploring the world from her
    40-foot sailboat since 2006 when she left Los Angeles and hasn't looks back! She travels with her cat called Amelia and lives an amazing life with as minimal impact on the world as possible. Her photos are amazing and makes me want to abscond to live life on the open waves.

  • Alastair Humphreys I find Alastair Humphreys a huge motivator in terms of just getting out there and doing something, anything! Even if you live in London and work one of those 9-6 jobs (I did) he believes that anything is possible and his desire is to get people out into the great outdoors is highly infectious. He coined the term Microadventure which encourages anybody and everybody to get out there for a mini,overnight adventure outdoor. He lives for adventure.
  • Mind of a Hitchhiker
    The Mind of a Hitchhiker follows the escapades of a lady as she makes her way around the globe and the everyday lives of people she meets. She's been on the road for over 4 years now (sept 2016) and has no plans to stop. She's hitchhiked to some of the places your average holiday maker would quiver to look at the brochure of. Definitely inspires me to get out there with my thumb and see where it can get me.



Saturday, 6 May 2017

Top Twelve Breakfasts on the Pacific Crest Trail

Yes! Give me all the breakfasts!! 

Breakfast is my favourite time of the day, on or off trail and I had some fantastic morning meals whilst in the United States. I was blown away by how big a deal this meal is. Most restaurants like Ihop have tailor made menus and if you want to dine here at 8am and onwards you'll find yourself queueing for a table!

As well has having the trail name Yorkie I gained a second name: Cereal Killer because I would pack out cereal - mainly of the sugary children's variety with powdered milk and voila cereal on the trail.

~ enjoy!
~Disclaimer: Do not read on a hungry stomach~
  • Breakfast at Papa Smurfs
    Now this was a grand occasion - thank you so much to Papa Smurf who puts on this amazing feast every morning when Hikers are present. We chowed down on doughnuts, pancakes, mini burgers, buttered potatoes, mini sausages in scrambled eggs, toast, orange and apple juice, coffee and tea.......

  •  Breakfast at the Kennedy Meadows Restaurant
    Being pick up by the owner and driven back to his restaurant with as many hikers who can clamber into his hatchback. For unlimited pancakes but after two you begin to find yourself begin to struggle as they expand in your stomach. Pleasing food with great company!

  • Breakfast at Vermilion Valley ResortI grew to love these simple little breakfasts and they made a welcome change after cereal bars and tortilla wraps with chocolate spread. This one was enjoyed with good company such as York, Puss in Boots, Tooth fairy to name a few. It was my last breakfast on the trail before I left it for a 2 week break.

  • Breakfast with a trained ChefWhilst in Belden Town I was treated to a bowl of freshly made porridge with wild brambles by Beaver. It was a lovely way to wake up and a good way to get some fruit into my diet.

  • Breakfast at Black Bear in Mount ShastaLook at that waffle with cream and strawberries and golden syrup to smoother it with.....

  •  Cereal on the trail
    Rare footage of my cereal killing ways from the trail. This was somewhere in Oregon and the waterfall also served as a refreshing shower after devouring one of my favourite breakfast meals.

  •  Pancakes at Paradise Cafe
    Breakfast here had a kind of legendary status for all PCT hikers. The Paradise cafe opens at 8am sharp and welcomes all through it's doors. Hikers, road-trippers, locals, tourists - all with one thing in common - to quench their hunger. Hikers probably have the biggest hunger out of all who pass through this cafes doors.
  • Enroute to Venice BeachWhilst on a 2 week break from the PCT I stayed with a good friend and her parents in law who treated me like family - Thank you! They also paid for the entire 2 weeks I was with them - this meal below was the only one I was able to pay for after stealing the receipt and running to the till. I enjoyed 3 crepes with generous dollops of strawberries and whipped cream accompanied by a hot chocolate.  

  • Breakfast from the Venice Beach HotelThis lovely little selection was available every morning. Cute little glass cups full of fruit parfaits. Scrumptious! A treat to wake up to every morning with unlimited orange or apple juice and tea or milk.

  • Somewhere enroute to Oregon Country Faire Now this was a pretty simple breakfast but so pleasing to the eye and my stomach. The presentation was rather awesome: rice krispies, fresh fruit, a blueberry muffin and half and half milk. I could not have asked for more.

  • In Lake TahoeWhilst having some down time from the trail, Wolf, Rambo and I found ourselves in a nearby restaurant enjoying the delight only to found by having food in the aurora light - well a few hours after dawn but you get the idea. I opted for fresh fruit with strawberry yoghurt, granola and powder icing sugar with orange juice. Bliss!
  •  A Treat from York
    This was little dish was eaten near Sisters with good company. York a fellow hiker I met back in the Sierras who was section hiking and treated me (spoilt me many times to be true) to a fancy breakfast. Thank you! Again I'm a sucker for fruit, granola, Greek yoghurt and a sliced strawberry on top. Delicious!

~Thank you for reading~

Sunday, 9 April 2017

The Pacific Crest Trail - 2 Years Later

 I can’t believe that the PCT was almost two years ago! I was actually in Japan, being a tourist and reading everything I could about the Pacific Crest Trail. I have no idea why I was drawn to it so much?

There I was living the dream, backpacking my way through south and east Asia, Island hopping and flight swapping. All I could think about was getting an American visa and hiking my way up the west coast.

At times it feels like a dream. Did it really happen? Did I really walk all the way? Did I meet all those people from all over the world?

Then at other times it feels like it was yesterday. It’s dubious and perplexing. Like a lot of things in life, you tend to look back at them fondly despite bad the moments. Through rose tinted glasses they say but I feel genuinely honest when I say that I enjoyed every day. Some more than others but who knew that walking day in day out through the wilderness could be so a kin with me.

Waking just before dawn when the world was still asleep and so still. The aurora glow illuminating everything. No wind to rustle the surroundings nature, just me as I stuff my sleeping bag back into its sack and sling my bag onto my back and march on. It’s still slightly dark as I tramp along, treading quietly along the long trail. It’s half a meter wide and goes all the way to Canada.

Soothing and calm, who knew I would enjoy the silence and my own company for so long. I revelled in it. Sloping up and then down, then zigzagging down then up, the height gained and lost was never ending. Slowly animals emerged, crossing my path. Jays, tiny woodland birds, rabbits, deer, marmots, chipmunks and all aware of me and accepting me as another  creature of the forest. I belonged.

Thursday, 6 April 2017

Hanami at Osaka Castle

Hanami is a long-standing Japanese tradition of welcoming spring. Also known as the “cherry blossom festival,” this annual celebration is about appreciating the temporal beauty of nature. People gather under blooming cherry blossoms for food, drink, songs, companionship and the beauty of sakura (cherry blossoms).

 Whilst working in Japan I finally got the chance to view the cherry blossom in bloom. The first time. I came to Japan I missed it by a few weeks so I was pretty chuffed to see it this time.

A friend and I checked out Osaka Castle which was lovely to revisit but packed with tourists - understandably of course.