Day 3 - 15.92mi or 25.61kmKildale Train Station >> Beside the Railway
My alarm goes off at half past 5 and I groan. I know we can’t sleepin and poke Joe awake. His indistinguishable murmur shows the feeling is mutual. I crawl out the tent and see just how visible our sleeping spot had been. Were slow to take down and fold away the tent, I glare at the large rock I’d been sleeping on. We limp back to the flaking wooden bench which was probably older than us. Soon were joined by track workers who are doing a bit of renovating to the station. They give us strange looks, two bedraggled hobos hanging out in the middle of nowhere looking pretty worse for wear. We cook our last packet of noodles between us and creak onwards out of the village, a little climb warmly us up. The stamping location - a lovely little cafe was unfortunately closed and didn’t open till 11am which was too late and we couldn't hang around. We leave the little village passing Bankside Farm and climb gaining height we appeared on top of Coate Moor. We arrive in a forest many of the trees undergoing felling, they’re mainly pine trees, the smell of fresh wood was delicious. A few early morning joggers passed us by and we ascended slowly upwards. We entered moorland again and found a huge pillar in dedication to Captain Cook. From the pillar we brace ourselves for the strong winds and observe the Cleveland Hills, look down into Great Ayton, across to Roseberry topping and back deep into the North Yorkshire Moors.
Onwards we plodded and sailed swiftly out of moorland and into Guisborough Woods. Wind whistling directly into our faces, I was pleased to gain cover from the tall evergreens even if their creaking was unnerving at time. We paused for lunch over looking the edge of a town below, angel cake was my choice of food. A sweaty biker in a high gear nodded at us as sat there chomping gladly not to be moving and in the warmth of the sun. I could see the opposite side of the valley, our path to come - sunlight was hitting it in waves in between passing clouds. I carefully stood and could feel my feet squeaking in anger. Long way still to go. We descended into the tree valley and came across a little motorized school, no vehicles were present but lots of tracks still lined the dirt. Now down at road level we cross the A171 and entered a quarry of some sort, a path of wooden steps lined the outer edge and up we went. Once at the top we chilled and I laid on the comfy grass blissfully soaking up the sunlight. It was bliss to be out the force wind and now covered in warmth. Joe applied some zinc oxide tape to my blisters making a lot happier. It wasn’t far to go now, we entered a field full of green, leafy grass which was bowing to the wind. It looked like a windows XP desktop. A family on bikes ride towards us and asks us what is back where we have come from. Due to all the steps we've just climbed we recommend it’s not for bikes and they zoom on ahead of us. We continue down into a Skelton and got a drink and some chicken. We return to the verdant surroundings were growing accustomed to and follow the Skelton beck as it winds in and out of the forest. Then the Skelton viaduct comes into view a huge red brick structure, old but still used how it should be. We wandered slowly beneath its arches in awe. It would have been great to have slept beneath it but it wasn’t time for us to call it a day yet. Walking on town life grows evidently through many more walkers and traffic noises issuing from ahead. So we walked on to the next town - Saltburn by the Sea and see our first glimpses of the sea. The victorian Cliff lift and Pier look impressive and still in good condition given their age.
We arrived in Saltburn and first proceeded to collect out next stamp. We got it from the library and our next port of call is food and end up in the The Ship Inn. It was pleasantly empty, only a few locals. We sit down heavily feeling what it must feel like to be 70. I glance down the menu but already know what I want - a 6 ounce cheeseburger with the trimmings and when it arrives it doesn’t disappoint. It’s huge and nestled in a soft white bread cake with about 3 potatoes worth of chips beside it. We are satisfied to have finally found our food but so full and don’t move for an hour afterwards, the wind beaten waves not at all encouraging to venture outside. We resupply and repack our food laden bags. From here on out we’ll be walking with the sea directly on our left meaning an increased wind and fewer spots to sleep hidden.
We have a quick look online to see if there was any cheap accommodation nearby, the cheapest place we found was 35£ and being the broke traveler's we are on we go. We plow into the gusty wind and walk another 4 miles to find a decent spot to sleep. A local spots us on our way out and talks as he passes us.
“are you hiking the Cleveland Way?”
“Yes” we said in unision
“Yes” we said in unision
“ Ah excellent, first I’ve seen this year”
We plow to the top of the hill and can see the waves crashing down on the cliff rocks below. We were to follow the coastline for the next few days till we came to the end of our trail.
The first tent location we scouted was too windy so I walk on optimistically hoping to find a better side. Luckily I do as when I return to Joe he’s laying flat on the tent attempting to prevent it from blowing away. I’d found a little ditch area next to a freight train line so we camped beside it. It’s surrounded by nettles but it was out of the wind and once it’s up we sleep rather well. Only the occasional freight rattles by.